Summer on the Islands - Izu Shodo

島 (shima/jima) = Island

The closest of the inhabited Izu Islands is two hours away from Tokyo by ferry, the farthest is seven. The islands are an outdoor adventure lovers haven with plenty of ocean side camping, natural onsen and scenic hikes. You also have access to creatures like dolphins and sea turtles in their natural habitat, so much better than the zoo.  

I've had the privilege of visiting Oshima, the largest and closest of the chain of islands. It is an absolute gem. 

The food is stellar. Unique. They have these tasty chilis they used instead of wasabi because there are no rivers on the island that wasabi could be grown in. 

The scenery is gorgeous - everything from black sand dunes, to coral reefs for snorkeling. It was so surprising to find such a subtropical paradise just two hours from Tokyo.  

Mt Mihara rim hike

Snorkeling at Toshiki Camp Ground

I made the journey during rainy season and got to experience peak bloom of the hydrangeas. It was breathtaking. 

And beyond the natural beauty, the island is home to some really amazing people. Especially, Suguru, my host on Oshima. 

Best host. Waving goodbye to us from shore as the ferry pulls away. 

Suguru runs a guesthouse called Island Star House. He did all the renovations on the home, by himself over the course of three years. He'd work Monday through Friday and then ferry over to the island, build Saturday and Sunday and be back in Tokyo for work on Monday. Talk about dedication and vision.

Photo courtesy of Island Star House.

Here is a little bit of information to help you plan your own adventure!

Stay

• Island Star House

Do

• Volcano museum
• Swim/snorkel by the Toshiki camp grounds
• Hama-no-yu Onsen
• Mt Mihara Hike

Eat

• Nantoukan - traditional island food, super yummy, be sure to go with someone who can speak Japanese, and even better if you can call ahead and let them know you are coming
• Takoyaki - he's a master, with a little red food truck, you'll smell the delicious food before you spot him.
• Ice cream from the Burratohouse farm.
• Taiyaki - savory and sweet options available, so delicious - set inside another guesthouse.

Travel

• Ferry from Hamamatsucho - 1hr 45mins direct or 2hrs with a quick stop (timetable and prices)

Very much looking forward to island hopping this summer, below are a few of the other islands and what they are known for: 

1. Niijima (surfing)
2. Mikurajima (dolphins)
3. Hachijojima (sea turtles)
4. Shikinejima (beaches and onsen)
5. Aogashima (only accessible by helicopter, an unbelievable double volcano!)
6. Kouzushima (camping and diving)

Another random fun fact to peak your interest in visiting: During the Edo period, Nii-jima, Miyake-jima, and Hachijō-jima served as places of exile for criminals....I can imagine that was isolating, but what amazing water front property they had!

A Love Letter to Summer in Japan

Summer may be hot, 100% humid and at times, rainy - but it is still an incredible time to be in Japan. From Hokkaido to Okinawa, there are parts of the country that are unlocked, only in this glorious season. 

There are icy cold rivers and waterfalls to splash down. 

Towns for strolling in yukata and watching fireworks.

Sunrises to take in from mountain peaks.

Beautiful blue oceans to swim in. 

Rowdy festivals that go on for days. 

Countless stars to ponder from your tent.

There are even dolphins to swim with.

The possibilities are endless.

Bring on the heat. Summer in Japan, I love you.

5 Fabulous Instagrams to Follow for Tokyo Inspiration

If you are planning a visit to Tokyo and looking for insight on where to go and what to do, here are 5 of my favorite Instagram/blog accounts.

Entrance to the Nezu Museum - gardens are not to be missed.

Follow along and get inspired about art, design, dining and nightlife:

Spoon&Tamago

The best of art and architecture in Japan - hands down. 

Instagram & Website

 

People Make Places

Really delightful profiles of the humans that run Tokyo businesses. Also available as a book and an app.

Instagram & Website

 

Poweredby.Tokyo

Curated bars, shops, restaurants. Gorgeous art direction.

Instagram & Website

 

Design Made in Japan

Because the Japanese get good design and you can delight from it.

Instagram & Website

 

3331 Arts Chiyoda

An Alternative Arts Center, housed in an abandoned school in the heart of Tokyo. Love their lense into the local art scene.

Instagram & Website

Just what you need to get super excited about your upcoming travels.

Japan daydreaming abound!

Bonus

It's currently sold-out, but if you can get your hands on the next run of Hello Sandwich's, Tokyo Zine, it has great recommendations for cafe's and shops in neighborhoods around Tokyo.

Pilgrims in Disguise

Reflections from the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

Japanese Version Here - 日本語のブログはこちら

When I set out to do the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage I didn’t know what to expect. I was disappointed that I only had time to complete it by car, and that I wasn’t going to be able to walk. I had thought that using the car was going to limit my interactions with others and reduce the “transformative power” of the journey. I’m happy to say I was completely wrong. The journey was incredible, not only did I get to explore the entire island but I also got to practice Japanese and make friends.

Kukai, founder of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Dressed in traditional outfit, straw sandals and hat, beggars bowl, staff, etc. 

In one day I received 3 oranges, an onigiri (triangle-shaped-rice snack), 2 bananas, a pair of slippers, 2 temple charms, a bath towel, 3 candies, many bows, a hug and was treated to lunch. These were all gifts from strangers, whom I had the pleasure of sharing a brief conversation.

One of my favorite interactions was with a couple, we’ll call the “coffee and compliment” couple. I never learned their names. We met on the last day of my adventure. I was at temple 7 reading the heart sutra, and they hung back to listen. When I finished they approached and asked if I had been practicing and complimented me. We made small talk as we walked over to the stamp office where they proceeded to tell the staff about my “reading.” It was sweet and I was touched. We said our goodbyes in the parking lot, but then at Temple 6, I saw them again! This time we chatted a bit longer over coffee. After we finished our drinks we got in our respective cars and drove away. I was a little sad when I didn’t see them at Temple 5, but figured they had stopped for lunch. But when I pulled into Temple 4, there they were. Waiting for me in the parking lot. The husband ran up to my window and said his wife had been worried sick. “Where had I gone? Why had it taken me so long to get there? Was everything okay?”

I was so surprised and reassured them of my own coffee stop and thus delay. I told them not to worry “心配しないでください” and thanked them for their concern. And that was it. Once they knew I was safe they went back to their car and continued on.

They have no idea how much that experience impacted me. How for the rest of the day I looked for opportunities to share the love they had bestowed on me, even if it was just smiling at someone at the temple.  I still smile when I think of those two. Such characters. Absolute treasures.

Another amazing interaction occurred in Matsuyama. I was pulling into my hostel for the evening and asked a couple standing out in front to help me while I parked. They turned out to be from Switzerland and were spending the summer biking their way through Japan. They were staying in Matsuyama longer than planned because one of them had twisted their ankle and needed to rest it. Since they couldn’t bike, I offered to take them to the temples I was visiting the following day, and they accepted. We went to temples 44 and 45, which were gorgeous mountain temples surrounded by gigantic trees. When we were getting ready to part ways we were approached by two French Pilgrims – they were having trouble booking a place to sleep for the evening. Since the Swiss couple spoke French fluently they acted, as middlemen, translating into English what the French men needed, and then I would speak in Japanese to the inn owners. The first few places we called were full, but we eventually found them a place to stay! The teamwork was incredible. And for my personal goal of learning Japanese it helped to build my confidence and motivation. Every time I said something and the native speaker actually understood me was like Christmas! It was such an enjoyable and practical way to solidify what I had learned in the classroom. 

Swiss couple at temple 45.

I could tell you stories for days, about the people I met on the journey and the experiences I had. There was the taxi driver that turned our car into a roller coaster. Or the pitch-black tunnel that reminded me just how grateful I am for friends, family and partners in this life (more about that here). And the sisters from Kobe that took me under their wing and taught me everything they knew about proper temple etiquette.

Sisters from Kobe, showing me the ropes. 

Since I’m not Shinto or Buddhist, these connections were the most spiritual part for me. Feeling that shared humanity – what we all have in common – is what touched me most deeply.

Out the window on the train back to Tokyo from Shikoku I saw one last pilgrim, dressed in white with his cone shaped hat, walking in the rice fields. It was a gorgeous scene and it pained me to think that I wouldn’t have that visual reminder of the experience when I was back in the city.

But then I thought, if a pilgrimage really means “life viewed as a journey” then all of us are just pilgrims in plain clothes.

I'm heading back to where I started, to begin again. 

Thank you to Forrest, Joe, Kate, Luis, Marguerite, and Megan - couldn't have put this together without you.

---

Hello from Tokyo! Elizabeth here. I'm so excited about all the Japan has to offer and am working to connect travelers to locations based on their interests and passions.

If you want to experience the Shikoku Ohenro or would like support in planning your trip, please email e@behere.asia and we can set-up time to talk.

If you aren't ready to plan a trip, but would like to receive updates about other interesting experiences in Japan (and receive postcards!) add your info to our subscriber list.

Pilgrims in Disguise - 人生とはカタチをかえたお遍路である

English version here.

We Are all Pilgrims: Illustration by Luis Mendo

四国のお遍路に行く前、私はこの巡礼の旅がどんなものになるのか、わかりませんでした。

お遍路は本当は歩いて巡礼したかったのですが、私には時間がなくて車で行かなければならなかったのが残念でした。

私が懸念（けねん）していたのは、車でお遍路を行くことによって人と話す機会が減ったり、心境の変化が起こりにくくなることです。

でも、その懸念が間違っていたと今は喜んで言うことができます。

この旅はすばらしいものでした。四国全体を見てまわっただけではなく、日本語を練習し日本の友達もつくることができました。

一日のうちに、オレンジ３つ、おにぎり１つ、バナナ２つ、スリッパ、お守り２つ、バスタオル、あめ３つ、たくさんのお辞儀、ハグ、それだけではなくお昼ごはんまでご馳走になりました。
これらはすべて、私がお遍路を行く中で短い楽しい会話を交わした、初めて会った人たちからもらったものです。

私がこのお遍路旅の中で出会った人でもっとも印象に残っているのは、私が “coffee and compliment” カップルと呼んでいる日本人夫婦のことです。（私は彼らの名前を聞いていませんでした.）
 
私はお遍路旅の最終日にそのご夫婦に出会いました。

私が７番目のお寺にいるときのことです。般若心経を声に出して読んでいると、後ろで日本人夫婦がそれを静かに聞いていました。

そして般若心経を読み終わった時に、そのご夫婦が近づいてきて「練習したんですか？上手ですね」と話しかけてくれました。

私たちは少し話をして一緒に納経所に行きました。そしてそこのお寺の人に私が般若心経を声に出して読んでいたことを、話してくれました。

私はそのご夫婦が親切だなと思い、いい気持ちでした。私たちは駐車場で分かれたのですが、そのあと六番目のお寺でまた再会しました。

このときはコーヒーを飲みながら、もっと長く会話をしました。

コーヒーを飲み終わって、私たちは再びそれぞれの車に戻り、出発しました。

五番目のお寺ではご夫婦に会いませんでした。ちょっと悲しかったけど、たぶんお昼ご飯を食べているのだろうと思いました。

でもそのあと、四番目のお寺にご夫婦がいました。 なんと彼らは私のことを待っていてくれたのです。

ご主人が私の車に駆け寄ってきて「どこにいたんですか？どうしてこんなに時間がかかったんですか？大丈夫ですか？心配したんですよ」と聞いてくれました。

私はとても驚いてコーヒーを飲んで休憩したので遅れたことを説明しました。そして心配してくれたことにお礼を言いました。
ご夫婦はそれを聞いて安心すると、またお遍路旅に戻って行きました。

この経験がどれだけ私に影響を与え感動するものだったのか、きっとこのご夫婦は知らないでしょう。

この出来事のあと、私はお寺で会う人に笑顔を向けたりするだけのことでも、このご夫婦にもらった愛情や気遣いを他の人とも共有したいという気持ちになったのです。

私は今でも、そのご夫婦のことを考えると笑顔になります。そんな素敵な人たちとの出会いは私の宝物です。

松山ではまた違ったおもしろい経験をしました。

私がホテルに着いた時 、外にいたカップルに車を駐車場に入れるのに、他のものにあたらないように見ててとお願いしました。

あとでこのカップルはスイスから来ていて、夏の間日本を自転車で旅行していることがわかりました。

彼らは松山に予定より長く滞在していました。なぜなら女性の方が踵をひねってしまい、休む必要があったのです。

そのため彼らは自転車に乗れなかったので、私はその日に訪れる予定にしていたお寺に私の運転で一緒に行こうと誘い、彼らもその誘いにのりました。

私たちは44番目と45番目のお寺に行きました。そのお寺は美しく、樹齢を重ねた巨木に囲まれて
いました。

私たちが45番目のお寺から帰ってきた時に、駅で二人のフランス人男性のお遍路さんに会いました。彼らはフランス語しか話さず、その日の夜の宿の予約ができず困っていました。

私と同行していたスイス人夫婦はフランス語が話せます。だからフランス人男性お遍路さんが言っていることを英語に通訳し、それを私が聞いて、日本人の民宿オーナーに電話で伝えることができました。

まずはじめに電話した民宿は予約がいっぱいでした。そのあと何軒か電話して、最終的には彼らが宿泊できるところを見つけることができました。

彼らの宿を予約してあげたことによって、私は自分の日本語にもっと自信を持てるようになりました。

お遍路で会った人やそこでの出来事について、数えきれないくらいのエピソードがまだまだあるのです。

あるタクシーの運転手は下り坂で「おもしろいものを見せてあげよう」と言ってギアをニュートラルに入れると、なぜか後ろに下がっていくのを体験させてくれました。

85番目のお寺では90mのトンネルがありました。お寺の地下にで光も音もないところを歩く瞑想をして、普段家族友達にどれだけ感謝しているかを感じました。

神戸から来た姉妹は、私にお寺の作法を全部教えてくれました。

私は神道信者でも仏教徒でもないので、これらの経験はとてもスピリチュアルに感じました。人間のあたたかみを共有したようなーそれはどんな宗教の人でも持っている共通するやさしさのようなものーそれに私はとても感動しました。

四国から東京に戻る新幹線の窓から、私は最後にお遍路さんを見ました。白い白衣を来て、菅笠をかぶり、田んぼの中を歩いていました。

それはとても美しい風景でした。この風景やここでの体験が東京ではできないだろう思うとさみしくなりました。

でも考えてみれば、お遍路の意味は「人生を旅としてとらえる」ことです。私たちは日常、普通の生活を送りながら人生という旅をしているのです。

私は東京へ戻り、またここから再び人生がはじまります。

---

Notes on Japanese Translation

Translating this post from English to Japanese was a team effort. My tutor Akari Sensei and I went sentence by sentence introducing new vocabulary and sentence structures as they were needed. I would translate the sentence first and then Akari would show me where I went wrong and how to make it flow better. It was an incredible learning experience. Very different from the classroom setting in terms of the order they would teach something, but was a structure that suited me. Akari and I plan to record her reading the entire post and then have me listen and practice reciting. In the hopes that the vocabulary and sentence structures really sink in.

I am so grateful to have found Akari Sense, she is an incredibly talented teacher. Cannot recommend her enough for anyone looking to learn Japanese.

Here are links to her blog and Japanese lessons. 

---

About the Author:

Elizabeth moved to Japan in the Fall of 2015. Since arriving she's spent her time exploring from Hokkaido to Yakushima and learning the language. She founded Be Here Asia to help English speaking tourists find their way to amazing, but remote destinations in Japan. 

Would love to hear from you with ideas for future destinations to visit, email e@behere.asia.

Revisiting James Turrell's House of Light

One of the last lines in the new film about Banksy's 31 day residency in New York City poses the question:

“Wouldn’t you rather live in a world made by art, rather than just decorated by it?”

— Banksy Does New York (film, 2016)

Such a powerful question. And Yes, yes I would.

But what does that look like? 

To me, it looks like James Turrell's House of Light in Niigata, Japan. The man has managed to turn a home into not only a painting/sculpture/performance piece, but also a community center and retreat space. It's incredible. 

Last weekend we took a group of 10 individuals from all over the world up for a night to experience it for themselves.

We saw shooting stars, took multiple baths, feasted on delicious food and woke up ridiculously early to watch the sunrise.

We were all sad to leave, but know that we'll get to go back another day and share the experience with more people. 

Hope you can join!

Yulia Skogoreva is the amazing photographer who captured all these photos: http://www.yuliasko.com/.

You can see more of Yulia's photos from the trip on Facebook.

Japan gets It - Site-specific Art on Naoshima

Just returned from my inaugural trip to Naoshima - one of the three art islands located in the Seto Inland Sea - right between Shikoku and Hiroshima.

My travel companion on the trip was Laura Polkus, a designer and stylist, visiting Japan from San Francisco. You should follow her on Instagram and Twitter. Not only is she talented, but also HILARIOUS! I wanted to show her a place that might inspire her future design/styling work and Naoshima did not disappoint. From Tadao Ando’s architecture to the amazing site specific artworks - Naoshima was truly awe inspiring.

A return visit is definitely in order to spend more time on Naoshima as well as visit Teshima and Inujima.

For future trip takers here are a few things I learned that will ensure you get to experience the works in all their glory:

1. Give yourself two days on Naoshima - it can be done in one, but you have to be more focused and less leisurely in your explorations.

2. When you arrive make reservations to experience the pieces below:

   1. Melting Bath at Benesse Museum (Wednesday, Friday, Sunday only)

   2. Open Sky Night Program at the Chichu Art Museum (Friday and Saturday only)

   3. Minamidera, Art House Project (show every 15 minutes)

3. The bar in the Oval at the Benesse House is open to all hotel guests between 9-11pm. Let the front desk know when want to go up and they’ll run the monorail for you.

4. Lee Ufan Museum was the least inspiring - I’d skip it.

5. Visit the sento (I　 <3　湯） by the ferry port - it’s delightful to soak in such a kitch bathhouse.

6. Rent a bike! Such a great way to get around the island - buses/shuttles are available too, but the bikes will give you greater flexibility and are adorable.

Bruce Nauman 100 Live and Die , 1984

This is the second area that I’ve visited in Japan that made a destination out of art. I’m very curious about the role art/artists/institutions are playing in the revitalization of rural areas in Japan. And what impact these projects are having for the local communities? Will continue to explore and inquire on future trips.

---

Useful tidbits:

1. Accommodations

   1. Benesse House Museum (highly recommend, at least one night),

   2. Yurts

   3. Homestay (best for Japanese speakers - I'm most interested in doing this next visit)

   4. Airbnb’s, here or here

2. Access from Tokyo

   1. Shinkansen (Tokyo to Okayama) (3.5 hrs)

   2. To bus/train (Okayama Station to Uno Station) (55 mins)

   3. Ferry (Uno Station to Miyanoura Port)  (20 mins)

3. Eating

   1. Museum Restaurant (do the sake pairings with dinner!)

   2. Apron Cafe

   3. Shioya Diner

4. Where to go next

   1. Shikoku - Delicious, inexpensive food, beaches, mountains, gorges and a holy pilgrimage route!

   2. Hiroshima - History. Worth visiting and learning about the A bomb destruction and efforts for promoting peace moving forward.

笑うーLaughing my way through Japan

Living in a different country is a different experience than visiting there. 

外国に住むことは、外国にりょこうすることとはちがうけいけんです。
 

Both are great and valuable. I didn't expect them to be so different.  For me, living abroad has been especially impactful.

どちらもすばらしく、きちょうなことです。わたしにとっては、がいこくにすみつづけることはとくにいみがあります。

It has been the perfect antidote for perfectionism.

私にとって、日本に住みつづけることが、かんぺきしゅぎへのよいげどくざいです。

How so?

どうして？

Because not speaking the language makes you a much less capable member of society。 

なぜなら、ことばをはなせないと、そのしゃかいのいちいんとしてできることがひじょうにすくないからです。

When I arrived I found myself asking for help on even the most basic of tasks – ordering off a menu, figuring out what train to catch, working the microwave.

わたしがはじめてにほんにきたとき、もっともきほんてきなことをするのにもたすけがひつようでした。メニューをえらぶことや、どのでんしゃにのるべきかをかんがえること、でんしレンジのつかいかたについてです。

It was hilarious and absolutely delightful.

それはとてもおもしろく、ほんとうにうれしいです。

Everyone was so kind.

 みんな、とてもしんせつでした。

I made mistakes all the time.

わたしはよくまちがえました。

And still make mistakes all the time, although I am getting better.

まだよくまちがいますが、ちょっとずつよくなっています。

But my mess-ups are my best learning experiences.

 でも、まちがえることからいちばんおおくをまなびます。

They helped to build my confidence to continue to try new things．

まちがえることは、あたらしいことにちょうせんしつづけられるよう、じしんをもつてだすけをしてくれます。

I still cannot understand everything written on menus and signs.

わたしはまだ、かかれているメニューやひょうしきのすべてがわかるわけではありません。

I’ve found that when you cannot understand everything around you, you begin to take yourself less seriously (in a good way)!

まわりにあるすべてのことがりかいできるわけではないばあい、しんこくにとらえなくなるのだときがつきました。

I laugh much more now than before. And I like that.

 今のほうがまえよりももっとよく笑います。そしてそれが好きです。

I hope that when you visit you get a little taste of this as well.

あなたがたずねてくるとき、このことをすこしわかってもらえるといいですね。

The life lived less seriously.

しんけんになりすぎないじんせい。

And if you are wondering "When is the best time to come?”

 そしてもしあなたが、いつにほんにくるのがベストなのかをしりたいとおもうなら

It’s whenever you have time.

それは、いつでもあなたにじかんがあるそのときです。 

Honestly, there is something interesting to do and beautiful to see ALL year long.

ほんとうに、いちねんをとおして、なにかおもしろいこと、きれいでみるべきものがあるのです。

Echigo Tsumari - Art in Nature - Awe Inspiring

I think it’s a good sign, that with every new place I visit, I fall more in love with Japan and it’s people. This past weekend I went to Niigata and visited Echigo Tsumari. Echigo Tsumari is a collaboration between 6 different areas - working to build community and prosperity through the arts. Since 2000 they’ve been hosting an art festival that draws thousands of visitors. The collection is installed outdoors, making it an amazing road trip through the countryside. 

Nohbutai and Kinare

Visiting in the winter means the area is covered in a thick blanket of snow and most outdoor installations are inaccessible. But the main art museums, Nohbutai and Kinare, are still open. Both collections are filled with art that speaks to the historically agrarian roots and depopulation's effects on the region. 

Attached to Kinare is a beautiful onsen. After taking in the collection, I'd recommend a soak!

Permanent installation at Nohbutai. Every inch of the room is covered in chalkboard paint. Instant imagination spark.

Sansho House

When you visit Echigo Tsumari, the accommodations are works of art in themselves. On Friday night we stayed at Sansho House a converted wooden school from 1958. It's not uncommon to have abandoned schools in Japan, especially in rural regions. With the number of school age children declining rapidly, they combine school districts and shut down schools. 

The whole depopulation narrative makes it sounds depressing. But it's anything but that. The atmosphere at Sansho House is cheerful, welcoming and inquisitive. I was so humbled to be greeted by name upon arrival - "エリザベス、おかえりなさい！Welcome Elizabeth!" That's not an uncommon pa. I’m continually impressed and inspired by Japanese innkeeper's ability to greet guests by their first name. No introduction required. They learn it ahead of time in preparation. The staff will take great care of you and they have a very large collection of Japanese Sake, so I'd recommend doing a tasting.

Dinner at Sansho House - yummmm.

House of Light

Front door at night. James Turrell, House of Light.

The second night my friend and I stayed at James Turrell's House of Light. No photos can do this place justice. Absolute magic. At sunset and sunrise the roof retracts creating a frame for the sky above. I feel so silly writing this, but I don't think I'll ever look at the sky the same again. The house was inspired by Tanizaki's In Praise of Shadows. It's a beautiful essay on the Japanese aesthetic and how it contrasts western aesthetic. Read the essay before your visit.

At the House of Light even the bath is a work of art.

I was so inspired after leaving the house and so determined to share the experience with my friends that I booked it again for April 8th (it's a Friday). I reserved the entire home, which sleeps up to 16. If you are interested in joining, just message me! I cannot wait to share this experience with you. 

---

Useful tid bits:

Transport: Take the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station. Rent a car and drive from there. Keep telephone numbers of your destinations handy. That's what you plug into GPS for directions. 

Accommodations: I'd recommend Sansho House and House of Light. But there are many other great options listed here.

Do: All the art. Check the Echigo Tsumari website for information on what is on display when and one off events.